On this International Women’s Day, in Kinshasa and throughout the Congo, women will join parades through the streets of their cities, celebrating the unique contribution of Congolese women to national life and development. Traditionally, although there has been some push back, employers are expected to distribute branded pagnes to their female employees for this event. The pagne (liputa in Lingala), typically a one by six meter brightly-printed cotton wrapper, has been the mainstay of Congolese every day wear and fashion for over 100 years. The pagne is one of the most emblematic characteristics of Congolese women.
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| International Women's Day parade in 2013 (Ph. Radio Okapi) |
Full disclosure: this subject is not my area of research or experience, so much this presentation is the product of searches on the world wide web. I have tried to triangulate and verify this information, but there may be errors within.
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| Women going to a Palm Sunday service in Lodja, Sankuru Province in 2006 (Ph. Author coll.) |
Traditionally, Congolese artisans produced cloth from fibers, including those of the raffia palm. The Kuba people of Kasai are renowned for a range of textiles, from “Shoowa” (or Kasai velour) to embroidered and appliqué fabric.
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Male dancers in embroidered Ntshak skirts. Women also wore these on ceremonial occasions (Forbes Africa, Sep. 1, 2012) |
European textiles, known as “trade cloth”, were an early component of economic exchanges with Africa. Handkerchief size pieces served in barter arrangements. “Manchester cotton” was part of the triangular slave trade with West and Central Africa in which enslaved people were obtained in exchange for textiles (and liquor and firearms) and sold in the sugar plantations of the Caribbean, which also produced cotton from enslaved labor, then re-exported to the cotton mills of Manchester.
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| The Kinshasa market around 1912 (Ph. Author coll.) |
Early examples of the fabric were nondescript, solids or stripes printed on cotton. As Pelle Yntema describes, the Dutch House, NAHV, used its “Stripes” cotton fabric in the barter trade, in exchange for forest products such as palm oil and kernels. While some elite African women dressed in European outfits (Nov. 5, 2025) most women in the 1920-30s wore “African” cloth. .jpg) |
| Three women in cotton sarongs (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Women posing with Force Publique band members (Ph. author coll) |
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| NAHV store in Inongo, Lac Mai Ndombe Province 1927 (Ph. Yntema, 2023) |
Early on, Belgian investors decided to beat the British at their own game and establish a textile plant in Leopoldville. This operation would be supported by forced cotton production in the eastern regions of the country where it was initially introduced as an export crop during WWI. Construction of the plant began in 1927 on 45 hectares of land between Kinshasa and Leopoldville where the Gombe River empties into the Congo (Feb. 27, 2020). During his visit to the colony in 1928, King Albert visited the Texaf factory in Leopoldville and inaugurated the weaving hall (Aug. 22, 2018). -copy.jpg) |
| Kin Albert leaving the Texaf plant (Ph. Author coll.) |
On the eve of World War II, Texaf, now Utexleo, produced 1.3 million meters of textiles. During the war, Utexleo, expanded production to meet demand. By 1943, with new machinery imported from the US, the factory was producing 20 million yards of fabric. But this only represented a third of demand. The United States, which imported large quantities of strategic materials from Congo during the war – including copper, tin, tantalum and palm oil – wanted to keep the flow going at the maximum possible, and the primary incentive for African workers was textiles. The Americans sold Utexleo over 10 million yards of white muslin to be printed using local designs. Washington bureaucrats did hope American printed textiles could be introduced into the Congo market, however.
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Utexleo spinning machines in 1942 (Ph. "Belgian Africa's Total War", Belgian Information Center, 1942) |
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| A woman outside the Hotel Sica in 1939 (Ph. liberas.eu) |
US Vice Consul Cromie explained to Washington the importance of cotton cloth to incentivize Congolese workers employed in war effort industries. In the patronizing tone of the era he opined that a Congolese would not work unless he could immediately exchange wages for trade goods, of which 60 to 65% was spent on cotton textiles. In addition to use as clothing (wraps for women), fabric was also a significant element of bride-dowry negotiations. But, he noted, the African had a keen appreciation of quality.
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Avenue Beernaert in 1942. The Patisserie Nouvelle (left rear), which is still in operation at this location, is under construction (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Dancers at a bar in the cité in 1943 (Ph. liberas.eu) |
In an article in The Atlantic in March 1955, Oden Meeker noted that Utexleo was producing 23 million yards of fabric a year. The Lever Brothers United Africa Company, of which Congo’s Sedec was a Lever Brothers subsidiary, sold 100 million yards per year from Congo all along the West Coast of Africa. Of the European textiles, Congolese women preferred the quality of British, Dutch and French fabric.
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| Artists at Utexleo in 1952 creating new prints (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Shoppers at the Public Market in the 1950s (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| The Public Market in the 1950s (Ph. Author coll.) |
Although women did not have the right to vote in Congo’s Independence elections in 1960 (women’s suffrage was not granted until 1967), women did participate in the festivities in significant numbers.
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| Albert Kalonji supporters at the National Parliament in June 1960 (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Independence 1960 - Woman wearing a pagne printed with King Baudouin's image (Ph. Getty archive) |
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| A woman attending a reception a the President's residence (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Finalists at a beauty pageant, part of the Independence festivities (Ph. Author coll.) |
In 1971, President Mobutu began to implement a series of decrees that came to be known as “Authenticité”. October 27 he renamed the country, the river and the franc from Congo to Zaire. December 31, all European place names in the country were returned to their Congolese original names (Leopoldville and other provincial capitals had already been renamed in 1966). After Mobutu’s trip to China in January 1973, the Political Bureau passed clothing ordinances prohibiting suits and ties for men (in favor of the Maoist-styled “abacost”) and prohibiting women from wearing wigs, pants and skirts.
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Employees at Carlo Erba pharmaceutical plant in Kinshasa in 1969, wearing a mixture of traditional and contemporary outfits (Ph. Elliot Elisofon, Smithsonial Institution) |
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Foire Internationale de Kinshasa (FIKIN) in the 1970s. The women are wearing pagne outfits, the men behind them in abacosts (Ph. skyscrapercity) |
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| Shoppers at the Central Market in the 1970s (Ph. Author coll.) |
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| Crossing Blvd. du 30 Juin outside the Belgian Embassy in 1973 (Ph. Wikipedia) |
With Mobutu’s demise in May 1997, restrictions on men and women wearing Western clothes were lifted. Young women began wearing jeans and T-shirts, but the pagne still remained a feature of national dress. Haute couture enhanced its use.
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A fabric store on Ave. du Commerce (Ph. mapasafamiliakinshasa.blogspot.com)
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While the main market, “Zando” (market in Lingala) and nearby Ave. du Commerce were important locations for fabric purchases, another venue called “Beach” developed on Ave. Wagenia near the Brazzaville ferry landing, in a large compound including a restaurant called “Le Grand Baobab”. The vendors sold pagnes, including fabric brought across the river from Brazzaville; but as an informal market (marché pirate), the sellers were subject to harassment and periodic closures by the authorities.
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| The "Grand Baobab" restaurant, site of the Beach Ngobila fabric market (Ph. Author) |
At the end of April 2002, the women sellers were evicted from the site and relocated to a shoulder of Ave. Bas-Congo behind the Onatra headquarters. On May 3, some 200 of the sellers took over the intersection of Aves Ebeya and Kasai, claiming their action was critical for their families’ survival. The following year, the sellers reoccupied the Beach Ngobila site, asserting that they didn’t like the Zando ya Imbwa site (to which they’d been relocated from the Ebeya-Kasai intersection.
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| Pagne sellers at the Beach Ngobila market (Ph. Radio Okapi) |
By the early 2000s, Congo’s domestic textile industry was in trouble. Aging plant and competition from cheap Chinese imports sounded the death knell. In May 2003, management at Utex and Sinetexkin in Lubumbashi appealed to the Minister of Industry for protection. The Filtisaf factory in Kalemie was taken over by the UN Monuc peacekeepers and the machinery stored. Two years later, Utex merged with Congo Textile Printers, a British firm established in Kinshasa in 1969, to form Congotex with the Chinese firm CHA Textiles, which had extensive operations in West Africa (July 3, 2011). The partnership promised $17 million investment in new plant and equipment. Less than two and a half years later Congotex closed its doors, citing lack of cotton to produce fabric and competition from imports. One thousand Congolese were laid off. The only remaining domestic textile manufacturer in Congo was Sotexki in Kisangani, established in 1974 with French investment. -copy.jpg) |
Utex-Africa sales center on Ave. Mondjiba in 2009 (Ph. Author coll.)
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| Utex-Africa advertisement (Ph. Author coll.) |
Dr. Jill Biden, wife of the then US Vice President, visited Kinshasa in July 2014. With additional stops in Zambia and Sierra Leone, her trip was intended to showcase women’s empowerment, education and contributions to economic development. While in Kinshasa, she purchased a full-length turquoise dress from Vlisco. Vilsco, which has been a leading manufacturer of Dutch or Java prints in Central and West Africa for the last century, is now the purveyor of high-end “super-wax” fabric and ready-to-wear. Inspired by Indonesian batiks, the Dutch firm perfected mechanical printing of the cotton fabric. However, the Indonesians didn’t care for the result, so Vlisco turned to Africa, already a competitive market with British, French and Japanese textiles.
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The Vlisco store in Kinshasa (Ph. Vlisco)
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| Jill Biden (r) shopping at Vilsco (Ph. Washington Post) |
Vlisco’s current Managing Director says Vlisco entered the Congolese market around 1950, though not likely as a direct retailer. The company developed commercial links with Unilever’s United Africa Company in West Africa, and Sedec would have been a likely outlet in Congo. Dutch Wax became popular in the Kinshasa market in the 1960s, often smuggled across the river from Brazzaville. Although much more expensive than the domestic fabric, wealthy consumers preferred it for the cachet it offered. In the early 2010s, Vlisco opened a boutique on the south west side of Place du Marche in Kinshasa styled as “Maison du Pagne L’Original”. Last year, Vlisco opened a new show room on Blvd du 30 Juin.
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| Vilsco sales agent at a Congo store in the 1950s (Ph. Yntema, 2023) |
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| Jill Biden in the Vlisco dress (Ph. Washington Post) |
The fabric sellers at Beach Ngobila were evicted in September 2013, ostensibly to allow the Kinshasa municipality to clean up the site. In April 2015, the Bourgemestre (Mayor) of Gombe Commune informed the mamas that they needed to relocate for two months so the city could build a proper new market. The vendors feared this was a ruse to sell the property. Uniformed men evicted 80 fabric sellers from the market in July 2018, destroying the stands. Coincidently, Mama Julie Mboko’s plans for a 5th annual “Kermesse Grand Baobab” at the restaurant were scuttled, even though she’d obtained all necessary permits, provided financial guarantees and arranged for sanitary facilities.
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| Beach Ngobila Market (Ph. Radio Okapi) |
In the middle of the Covid pandemic in 2020, two friends, Rukiya Hamadi Lusinde and Tshibwabwa Mua Bay, created WaxBazaar. Collaborators at the women’s magazine Kabibi, they wanted to address the lack of authentic Congolese pagnes, a market dominated by Chinese and European manufacturers. Notably, their textiles draw upon Congolese themes, including Kuba and Shoowa inspired designs. With the demise of the Congolese textile industry, the fabric is printed in India. In recognition of International Women’s Day this year, the firm is offering pagnes at $10, available at Galerie Delice at Hotel Leon on Ave Luambo Makiadi, at Kanekiya on Ave des Forces armées, and Bellissima on Ave. Mongala. The fabric is also sold at the Bilembo gift shop, located in the former Texaf complex on Ave Mondjiba, bittersweet homage to Congo’s former textile glory.
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| The WaxBazaar store (facebook-waxbazaar) |
When Belgium’s King Philippe and Queen Matilde visited Kinshasa in June 2022, they sought to take in some local culture – “local color”, one might say. Accompanied by Congolese First Lady, Denise Nyakeru Tshisekedi, they visited the Beach Ngobila market. The Royal couple visited all the stalls, and the Queen bought a length of cloth from one of the mamas. The visit was well-received by the sellers, though one groused she didn’t make a sale that day.
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Belgian Queen Matilde, King Philippe & First Lady Denise Nyakeru Tshisekedi at Beach Ngobila market (Ph. Agence Congolaise de Presse)
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In October 2023, ONATRA, the national transportation parastatal that controls the Ngobila Beach site, informed the pagne sellers that they would have to move. As often happens in property disputes in Kinshasa, an individual named Somao claimed to have title to the site, gaining some time for the sellers. Finally, in July 2024, ONATRA’s Director General said the mamas would have to move. The vendors banded together to appeal the decision. It appears they were able to delay the eviction, because on the night of April 6, 2025, a fire spread through the market, destroying the mamas’ stalls and inventory. The following week the Fondation Denise Nyakeru Tshisekedi offered funds to help the mamas rebuild.
At the beginning of January 2026, The Guardian reported that construction had begun on the site, threatening the venerable baobab. The paper’s headline asked, “can Kinshasa’s last remaining baobab tree be saved?” (Apr. 12, 2016). The action mobilized a different constituency to try to protect the old tree, but it seems the mamas’ suspicion that they were being evicted so someone else could profit from the land was not without foundation.
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The Beach Ngobila site, remnants of the fabric market can be seen over the wall on left (Ph. The Guardian) |
In a final acknowledgement of Congolese women, even the traffic robots in Kinshasa get pagnes. Designed by Therese Kirongozi, an industrial engineer at the Institut Supérieur de Techniques appliquées (ISTA) at Ndolo Airport, the first two prototypes were installed in Kinshasa in 2013. They have since been expanded in the capital and to Lubumbashi. The novelty of the technology appears to have fostered compliance among the public that Kinshasa’s traffic police were not always able to achieve.
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| Traffic robot at Ave Tombalbaye & Senegalais (Ph. Author) |
Sources:
- Agence Congolaise de Presse.
- The Guardian, Jan. 6, 2026, “’The soul of the city”: can Kinshasa’s last remaining baobab tree be saved?”
- Meeker, Oden, 1955. “Style in the Congo”, The Atlantic, March 1955.
- Radio Okapi, Fondation Hirondelle.
- Yntema, Pelle. 2023. The Company Store and African Consumption in the Belgian Congo (1918-1940), Disssertation, Ghent University.