Leopoldville 1943 – Diamonds and the War Effort

In the summer of 1943, the U.S. Office of Strategic Services (OSS), forerunner of the CIA, placed an agent code-named “Teton” in Leopoldville.  In real life a Michigander of Belgian descent named Antoine George Nader, he presented himself as Dr. Wilbur Hogue, on a mission to identify young Americans of draft age.  His real assignment was to figure out what was happening to Congo’s diamond production, so critical to the Allied war effort, but which had suddenly dropped by an amount equivalent to the stones sold to Germany before the War.  The OSS suspected someone was clandestinely smuggling the diamonds out of the country to the Third Reich.

The Congo diamond region

To legitimize his credentials and get some leads, Hogue stopped by the Institut de Medecine Tropicale Reine Astrid on Ave. Tombeur to consult an OSS informant, Dr. Adrien VanBrutsaert, who was working on a cure for sleeping sickness.  VanBrutsaert suggested Hogue take a room at the Hotel ABC (See Mar. 27, 2011) and spend time in the bar, which always saw a steady traffic of locals and visitors of various stripes and origins.  Hogue checked into the ABC and shaved his mustache, which he felt made him look too much like a spy.

Dr. VanBrutsaert's laboratory

Later that evening, Hogue took a place at the bar, playing with the tame python that liked to curl around patrons’ ankles. 

From behind he heard a breathy voice, “You look new to Congo”.  Crossing the room was a knockout blonde.  “Virginie Mayonnez”, she said, offering her hand, “I work at the Free French Consulate”.  Hogue introduced himself using his official cover story.  “You won’t find many suitable boys for your army here”, Virginie responded, “most of them are missionary kids and spend their time making pets of exotic animals from the jungle”.

Hogue sensed another presence at his elbow.  “Monsieur”, said the man in uniform, “Commissaire Smoutenbol of the Leopoldville Police. You must come to our office tomorrow to complete some formalities. Just routine, of course”.

After the policeman left, Hogue asked, “Can we have dinner tomorrow?”.  “But of course”, answered Virginie, “Meet me at the Café de la Paix at 8:00”.

The bar at the Hotel A.B.C.

When Hogue arrived at the Police Station the next morning, he found Virginie, Commissaire Smoutenbol and several sunburned-looking men loitering on the verandah.  It looked as though they had just come out of a meeting.  They dispersed and Virginie left without even acknowledging him.   Hogue completed three sheets of official forms for Smoutenbol, who duly stamped and initialed each page.

The Leopoldville Police Station

Virginie was waiting for Hogue at the Café de la Paix.  She explained that Smoutenbol had been meeting with a delegation of cotton planters from Kasai Province.  One of them was French and had a draft-age son, so the policeman had called her in for that.  “But, there seems to be something more going on with them than just the cotton harvest”, observed Virginie.

While they were waiting for their drinks, a tall man in a white suit stopped by their table. He flirted with Virginie, reminding her that his offer of a sightseeing flight over Stanley Pool was still on the table.

“That’s Zamboni”, she explained to Hogue after the man left. “He runs a small trucking company, but he just got a new aeroplane.  No one knows how he managed that, considering military priorities these days.”  Sensing Virginie could be trusted with a little insight into the true nature of his mission in Leopoldville, Hogue opined that he was interested in knowing more about the Kasai economy. She suggested he talk with a Congolese nurse, Albert Monganga.

Virginie and Hogue at the Cafe de la Paix

Monganga was an “Assistant Medical”, highly trained and with years of experience, but in the segregated society of the Belgian Congo, could never become a doctor. Hogue found him at the Municipal Hygiene office on Ave. Wanson near the Zoo (See Feb. 6, 2011). Explaining his recommendation from Mlle. Mayonnez, Hogue embarked on a convoluted exposition concerning missionary kids, the war effort and the Kasai economy.  Did Monganga have any thoughts on the matter?  “I have heard that there are a lot of visitors these days at the ‘Petit Chutes’ outside town, the Chutes de la Lukaya.” Monganga replied, “You might want to take a look there”.

Albert Monganga directs Hogue to the Chutes de la Lukaya

      The next morning Hogue took a small launch up the Lukaya to the falls.  As he approached the beach, a shot ricocheted off the metal roof of his little steamer.  Hogue steered into the papyrus and circled round to the thicket where the gunshot had come from.

Hogue approaching the Chutes de la Lukaya

         Suddenly, someone jumped him from behind.  Hogue threw the man off and picked up a large rock.  Something told him this was no time for subtlety.  “What do you know about the diamonds?” he roared. 

“Commissaire Smoutenbol has organized a smuggling ring.” his attacker groaned miserably, “The planters bring the diamonds to town when they come on business and Zamboni flies them out of the country”.  Hogue tied the man up and sent him floating down the Lukaya in his row-boat.

Hogue fends off his attacker

Getting to the truth

      Back at the Hotel ABC in Leopoldville, Hogue sent a message detailing the entire smuggling operation to OSS Headquarters on a special transmitter provided to him by the spy agency.  “CONGO CROSSING DIFFICULT PERIOD IN WAR EFFORT…” it began.  Just as he finished transmitting, Virginie knocked on the door and entered with Albert Monganga.  Without elaborating, she looked him in the eyes, saying, “You have done a great service to the Allied war effort”.  Suddenly, a shot crashed through the door, just missing Monganga.  Hogue grabbed his agency-issued semi-automatic.  “Who is it?” he growled.

Hogue's room at the Hotel A.B.C. (note special transmitting equipment at left)

     Zamboni pushed open the door and entered, pistol at the ready.  “I see you met my friends at the falls”, he stated.  “You’re clever, and good with your hands.  You should join my company.  I could pay you very handsomely”, he said, flashing a wad of bills. 

     “Get out of here”, snapped Hogue, “your kind will never succeed”.

M. Zamboni offers a deal

         The next morning, Hogue received a terse response from headquarters. “ALLIED PARTNERS WARY OF COMPROMISING KEY STRATEGIC INTERESTS IN WAR RESOURCES EFFORT.  MAKE NO FURTHER INQUIRIES, SUSPEND ALL INVESTIGATIONS INTO ILLICIT DIAMOND BUYING”.  Bitterly disappointed, Hogue packed up his transmitter. 

In the afternoon, dressed in his best suit and pith helmet, he took a taxi to Ndolo airport (See Jan. 27, 2014) where he saw Zamboni walking to his plane carrying a large case.  The diamonds!  Enraged at the ease of it all, he whipped out his pistol.  “Zamboni!” he yelled, then thought better of it. Duty first.  “Have a nice flight” was all he could muster.

Zamboni boarding his plane at Ndolo airport

Sources:

• Roberts, Janine, 2007. Glitter and Greed.
• Pevney, Joseph, 2015. Poisson d'Avril.

Kinshasa 1969 – FIKIN puts Congo on a new map

The Kinshasa International Fair (Foire Internationale de Kinshasa or FIKIN) opened its doors on Congo’s Independence Day, June 30, 1969.  Located in Commune de Limete at the “Echangeur” traffic circle off Blvd. Lumumba (See Aug. 20, 2011), the 18-hectare facility featured exhibitors from 20 nations and during its three-week run, hosted a total of 600,000 visitors.

The publicity poster of the original Fair

The event was designed to present a new, positive image of the Congo under Mobutu’s leadership.  Its organization also represented a rapprochement and collaboration with former colonial power Belgium, symbolized by the closing day of the Fair on July 21, Belgium’s national day.  Congo’s invitation to the world to attend the fair was symbolized at the entrance by a gigantic statue of the “Batteur du Tam-Tam” by sculptor Andre Lufwa Mawidi.

A view of the fair grounds - Chanic open-air exhibit in background

The "Batteur du Tam-Tam" at the entrance to the Fair

The idea of a organizing a trade fair in Kinshasa was proposed at the OAU meetings held in the capital in September 1967, just weeks after a second mercenary rebellion in Kisangani and Bukavu had again tarnished Congo’s international reputation.  On May 7, 1968, Mobutu signed an Ordinance creating the fair and that same month a consultant arrived to conceptualize the project and develop a budget.  By October, the construction contract was awarded to the C.C.C./Safricas joint-venture and site preparation began on the site, which previously had served as a paratroop training landing ground.  The contractors employed 700 workers, graded 150,000 cubic meters of earth, dug 20 kilometers of drains, poured 20,000 m3 of concrete, paved 50,000 m2 streets and parking and erected 40,000 m2 of exhibition halls topped with Congo-copper laminated roofs.  The commercial complex was complimented by a 100-unit Cité Fikin (built by ONL, though it was still under construction on opening day, SeeSep. 30, 2011).

The Fair entrance (center), pavilions (R) and amusement park (L)

The entrance to the exhibit area Fikin '71

Kinshasa did not have a formal site for large commercial events of this type.  During the colonial period, the authorities often used sports facilities, such as the football pitch in front of Sainte Anne Church or the stadiums.  During the Depression, local authorities tried to follow up the Belgian Centenary “Kermesse” (See Dec. 4, 2014) with a Foire Commerciale de Léopoldville, but this lapsed after 3 seasons.   In August 1951, a “Foire Commercial et Industrielle de Léopoldville” was held off Blvd. Albert 1er, on the open space reserved for Ricquier’s monumental boulevard (See July 31, 2011).   Significant interest in the Fair from Belgian firms required the planners to increase the exhibit space from 12,000 m2 to 17,000 m2. The complex featured a recording studio, cinema, post office and two banks.  A 35-meter tower topped with a searchlight would bathe the night sky while a reflecting pool provided participants with an opportunity to decompress from so much frenetic commercial activity.  After the fair, the facilities were demolished and construction began on a series of 7-story apartment buildings to house colonial civil servants.  Only the reflecting pool was retained and Ricquier’s grand urbanization scheme gave way to new priorities (See Jan. 23, 2011).

The Grand Place of the 1951 Foire Commerciale et Industrielle

                                    The Government apartments complex built on the Fair site. Note the reflecting pool in the center 

The unanticipated success of the FIKIN’69 prompted the authorities to establish it as a formal entity and to institute a program of alternating, bi-annual International and National fairs.  The National Fair held June 24-July 12, 1970, the 10^th Anniversary of Independence was themed, “Le Congo au Travail”.  The complex was expanded by 2 additional hectares and an amusement park added.  Belgian King Baudouin and President Mobutu jointly opened the fair.  Mobutu and his wife took a ride on “Mobembo”, the “Far West” train that encircled the park. The amusement park included a carousel, bumper cars, a tunnel of love, a roller coaster, and a house of mirrors. Restaurants serving hundreds of patrons and beer gardens with dance floors run by the breweries catered to thousands.  A 600-seat open-air theater showed movies.  Ten snack-bars, public toilets and a flea-market filled out the diversions heretofore unavailable to the ordinary Kinois.  The National Fair was a hit!

Kids at the amusement park

President Mobutu visiting one of the exhibits                                                    

The 1971 International Fair surpassed previous accomplishments.  Fifty countries were present with 2500 exhibitors, and an average 48,000 visitors a day paid 30 Makuta to attend.  Both covered and open exhibit space was expanded, of which 4000 m2 was reserved for Congolese participants.  The 1000 m2 United States pavilion featured exhibits organized by the Departments of Commerce, Agriculture and the US Information Agency.   When President Mobutu opened the third International edition June 23, 1973, the Fair had expanded to over 86 hectares, four new pavilions were added and 42,000 m2 of open-air exhibit space was available.  Reflecting changing political and economic policies of the country, the People’s Republic of China, Argentina and Brasil were present for the first time.  China and the US had the largest pavilions, with the latter featuring Texaco, Gulf, Mobil, Westinghouse, Goodyear and Constructors Inga-Shaba, which was erecting the 1700 kilometer electric transmission line from Inga Dam to the copper-producing region of Shaba.

                                          The Gecomin (now Gecamines) pavilion

The Batteur du Tam-Tam

The National Fair in 1974 focused on the results of “Zairianization”, the economic nationalization program decreed by President Mobutu November 30, 1973.  The crowds were so large the closing date was extended an additional week, by which time 1.5 million people had passed through the gates -- 200,000 more than the 1972 National Fair.  Nonetheless, problems were already developing over US participation in the 1975 International Fair. “Zairianization”, was not an issue, as most US businesses in Zaire were exempt from the measures under the 1969 Investment Code, but Washington was dragging its heels, citing budget constraints.  The US Embassy was concerned that the lack of American representation during the 10^th Anniversary of Mobutu’s accession to power would send the wrong message.  In the end, a cost-sharing arrangement was worked out with local American firms and the US pavilion opened again it its prime location. Forty-four countries were present and Belgium, France and Algeria sent strong delegations to sign trade deals.

DIFCO - Volkswagen representative open-air exhibit

The negative consequences of “Zairianization” were beginning to be felt, however, and combined with the 1975 oil shock and the collapse of copper prices following the end of the U.S. war in Viet Nam, the Zairian economy spiraled into serious decline.  For the first time in 1976, Mobutu did not appear for the official Fair closing.  In 1979 only 300,000 people visited the Fair and in 1981 Motel Fikin and the amusement park were privatized.  The 1987 Fair featured the “Five Year Plan”, with 11 countries and 325 firms exhibiting.   In 1991 and 1993, like the rest of the Capital, the fair was looted in the “Pillages”.

The publicity poster in 1981

By the time the coalition government under President Kabila was installed in 2003, the Foire had fallen on hard times.  The 150 tenants of the seriously deteriorated Motel Fikin complex were months and years behind in their rent.  This loss of revenue was critical, because the Fair was essentially a self-financing entity.  The following year, Minister of Foreign Commerce sought to negotiate with the renters and threatened them with eviction.  He travelled to Italy to seek help in rehabilitating the amusement park (an Italian firm had built the original).  Five tenants were evicted for unpaid rent in March 2006, but there was little appetite to pursue the campaign to its end.

The beer gardens at the amusement park - 2008            

Blvd Lumumba approaching the "Echangeur" 2011 -- Motel Fikin buildings on right

In June 2012, Fikin and the China Communication Construction Co. (CCCC) created a joint venture, the Société Immobilère du Congo (SIC), for a “cité moderne” on the Motel Fikin site and 11 adjacent unoccupied hectares.   CCCC contributed 80% of the $21.3 million capital, with Fikin providing 20%.  The complex would comprise 14 high-rise buildings with 630 residences, 14 villas, a five-star hotel, commercial buildings and recreational facilities.  The agreement stipulated that CCCC would first build on the vacant site, to which Motel Fikin tenants could be relocated, and then demolish the Motel to complete the construction.

Architectural rendering of the "Cite Moderne"

But in September 2014 Motel Fikin residents were notified that they must vacate by October 30 so that the Motel complex could be demolished.  There were as yet no apartments ready for occupation and the price tag for a two-bedroom unit was $225,000, hardly the “social housing” originally promised and unlikely to be affordable for Motel Fikin residents (or most Kinois, for that matter).  The rationale for the early demolition was to enable SIC to construct all the roads, drainage and utilities at one time.  Minister of Economy and Commerce Jean-Paul Nemoyato visited the site October 22, 2014 and declared himself satisfied with the status of the construction work.    CCCC maintains the first apartments will be ready for occupancy in September 2016.

Aerial view of the project site, the Echangeur and Blvd. Lumumba (the Fair is left of Motel Fikin site)

Sources:

• Congo-Afrique, 1971. “Au Barometre de la Fikin 81”, Centre d’Etudes pour l’Action Sociale, p.363.
• Congolia, 1969. S.N.E.C., Kinshasa.
• Jeune Afrique, 1975, pp. 61-64.
• Revue Colonial Belge, 1951, p. 401.
• www.skyscrapercity.com
• www.wikileaks.org